Hello again and welcome to the fifth installment of Luthier’s Corner. In the last 2 installments, I discussed the importance of properly setting up your guitar or bass, with a focus on different types of pickups in last month’s issue. This month, I’m going to discuss the different types of bridges that you will find on various different styles of electric guitars and what makes them unique from each other as well as how to do various adjustments on them.

Basically, you have 5 main types of guitar bridges, with variations on each. They are, the Gibson style tune-o-matic and stop bar tailpiece, the wraparound anchored bridge commonly found on Les Paul Jr’s-with intonatable saddles or fixed saddle, the Telecaster style 3 or 6 saddle bridge with pickup mount cut into the plate, the Stratocaster style tremolo bridge, and the Floyd Rose style locking tremolo.

Of course, as I said, each of these types of bridges have variations on their designs, depending on different manufacturers and are explained below.

Pic A Gibson style tune-o-matic	Pic B Gibson style tune-o-matic	Pic C Wraparound Bridge	Pic D Wraparound anchored bridge	Pic E Telecaster style 3 saddle	Pic F Telecaster style 6 saddle
Pic G Stratocaster Style Tremelo Bridge	Pic H Stratocaster style two Post Type	Pic I Floyd Rose style locking tremolo	Pic J Floyd Rose style Non locking tremolo	Pic K Parker bridge	Pic L Kahler Bridge

• Tune-o-Matic Bridge basically comes in 2 types, and really, the main differences between them are the mounting height posts. On USA type bridges, you’ll notice that the height posts are around 1/8” thick, and either have a threaded post and separate thumbwheel assembly, or the more modern type of threaded height post with the thumbwheel built into it, and the whole post actually threads into a separate anchor. Import style bridges have larger posts, that are usually slotted for a flat head screwdriver, which thread into larger anchors in the body. These types of bridges have 6 individual saddles that adjust laterally, or back and forth, via a small flat head screw driver. Some imports use screws with size 1 Phillips head screws as well. So when making intonation adjustments on these bridges, have your small flat head or Phillips screw driver handy. Bear in mind that usually these saddles cannot be adjusted for individual heights. To adjust the height of the bridge, if you have a USA type bridge, simply turn the thumbwheel until the bridge raises or lowers to your desired height. To adjust the height of the import bridges, use a ¼” flathead screwdriver to turn the posts until the bridge is at the desired height. Please see pic A for USA style and Pic B for import style.

• Wrap Around One Piece Bridge, commonly found on Les Paul Jr’s and similar guitars. These are fairly straightforward. If yours is one of the better quality bridges, with individually adjustable saddles, the lateral adjustment of each saddle is the same as the tune-o-matics described above. These bridges also have a lateral screw behind each height post. These can be adjusted using a flathead screwdriver, or Allen Wrench, depending on the design, to move that side of the bridge back or forth for even greater intonation adjustment. If it’s just a stop bar tailpiece type wraparound, then the only adjustment that can be made is with the lateral screw behind each height post. Please see pic C for bridge with saddles, and pic D for non saddle adjustable type.

• Telecaster Bridges are a lower profile bridge than the 2 described above, and therefore, Fender style guitars tend to have a different sort of feel to Gibson style guitars because of the shallower neck angle of a Tele or Strat style guitar compared to the steeper neck angle of a Gibson style guitar. The interesting thing about Tele style bridges is that the bridge pickup is incorporated into the bridge itself, making the bridge serve a dual purpose-it holds the strings in place, and is also a mounting plate for the pickup. The vintage style Tele bridge typically has 3 saddles that each have a pair of strings over each. The saddles of these bridges often have height screws that are actually slotted to be adjusted by a small flathead screwdriver. More modern ones usually have similar screws, but instead of being slotted, the screws use an Allen wrench to adjust the height. There are other Tele bridges that have 6 individual saddles, one for each string, and adjust the same as described for the 3 saddle. Each saddle of either bridge is also secured with a lateral screw that is adjusted using a small Phillips screwdriver for intonation. Please see pic E for 3 saddle, and pic F for 6 saddle.

• Strat Style Tremolo Bridges are similar, saddle wise, to the 6 saddle Tele bridge, with the exception of not having the bridge pickup mounted in the bridge plate, are usually anchored, in the front edge, with either 6 fulcrum screws, or 2 height adjustable fulcrum screws. The bridge plate itself is mounted to a sustain block that is anchored through the body with up to 5 springs which counteract the string tension and return the bridge to what is known as “zero” position after pushing the tremolo bar downward, to drop the pitch of the notes played, or pulling up on it, to raise the pitch. Making sure that the bridge returns to the same “zero” position each time the bar is used is important to maintain tuning stability. Naturally, there are other things that should be done aside from maintaining the “balance” of the tremolo bridge for tuning stability, such as installing locking tuners, a graphite or roller nut, etc. We’ll tackle that sort of stuff in a future installment. Please see pic G for 6 screw mount type, and pic H for 2 post type.

• Floyd Rose Style Locking Tremolo. These usually require you to cut the ball end off of each string and lock them into their respective saddles using the appropriate sized Allen wrench. The intonation on these are set by loosening a hold down Allen screw, located at the front of each saddle, and sliding the saddle back or forth until the intonation is correct. Then you lock that screw back down. Bear in mind, it’s highly recommended that you loosen the string before unlocking the hold down screw and making the necessary adjustments. Also, unlike all of the previously mentioned bridges, a Floyd style locking tremolo is a bit more advanced and not really recommended for a beginning guitarist to work with. Some Floyd style bridges don’t actually lock each string at the bridge and actually require you to NOT cut the ball ends off so you can just pull the string straight through the saddle. All the other adjustments are the same as the locking version of the bridge. Please see pic I for locking type, and pic J for string through type.

Naturally, like I said, there are variations to each of these bridges, many with their own unique adjustment techniques, but they all are based on these 5 fundamental designs. These descriptions were intended to help familiarize you with the different types of bridges out there, but by no means intended to ignore other types such as those made by Parker Guitars, Kahler bridges, etc. They too all have adjustments similar to those described. Please see pic K for Parker bridge and pic L for Kahler type.

Once again, thanks for reading my column and remember no task worth accomplishing is ever achieved if not pursued with fierce dedication. Believe in yourself, and make happen that glorious noise called music! Until next time, remember, there is nothing you can't do if you set your mind to it! Cheers!!